Liljevachs+ Museum in Stockholm is currently hosting an exhibition of couture garments commissioned from leading fashion houses by collector Frederik Robertsson.
Robertsson has amassed a unique collection of couture pieces over the last decade, with many of the garments initially designed for women and adapted for his body. The exhibition includes 40 pieces from his couture collection, including garments from designers Alexis Mabille, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda, Jean Paul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Stéphane Rolland, Schiaparelli, Valentino, Viktor & Rolf and Vivienne Westwood, Casey Curran, Richard Quinn and Robert Wun.
His collection includes works that redefine the binary male/female approach to couture, shifting focus into new and traditionally unexplored fashion genres.
Today, traditional Parisian haute couture has developed into fashion’s most experimental and artistic form of expression. A kind of creative free zone not subject to the industrial and commercial constraints of mass produced fashion.
Susanna Strömquist, Exhibition Curator.
Robertsson’s fashion sense attracts a fair amount of attention, but as he explains, that’s not his only intention. Couture is an artistic endeavour that has both function and form to consider, as well as a commitment to reflect the spirit of the commissioning character. Each of these garments reflects an exploration of new artistic creativity as well as breaking ground on traditional notions of male and female fashion. Whilst Robertsson tends to commission women’s wear, his intention is to break down the notion of couture as being an exclusively female domain. He wears garments for specific occasions, reflecting specific moods:
I create characters with my style. I like to dress how I feel and I like to dress for the occasion. When I am dark and moody, I dress in Rick Owens; if I’m going to a gala, I do gala; at the couture in Paris I go all out. I don’t limit myself, and I love to have fun with fashion.
Frederik Robertsson from an interview with Vogue.
Couture and character go hand in hand. Often a high regard for fashion exhibitions is the need to ensure that a sense of the human spirit is included in the presentation. As expected, the garments here take centre stage with exhibition artwork, photography by Ea Czyz and accessories providing snippets of Robertsson’s personality. Bonaveri’s bust forms add further characterisation, with subtle adaptations in body form, stance, arms and hands, that allow for the full appreciation of each garment.
A diverse collection of forms from the Bonaveri Sartorial Collection have been used throughout the exhibition. The Sartorial collection includes a wide variety of easily adaptable options including the simplest of bust forms all the way through to high end, articulated mannequins. The Sartorial brand is divided into Men, Women, Haute Couture and Atelier Collections, each featuring unique and yet interconnected aesthetic forms that unify a vast array of options.
Head to our online catalogue to view the full Bonaveri Sartorial Collection.
”The Dress Makes the Man, Haute Couture – A New Era” is based on Fredrik Robertsson’s haute couture wardrobe, curated by Susanna Strömquist and produced by Liljevalchs.
All images courtesy of Mattias Lindbäck/Liljevalchs.
Exhibition at Liljevachs+ in Stockholm, continues until the 11th of February 2024.
